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Over-the-Top
Makeup 101
Hey, being beautiful isn't easy.
Otherwise NAMBLA the Clown and Erica Candy Cane would fade into the
crowd, drag queen equivalents of Abercrombie automatons. It takes a
little creativity and a lot of patience to execute an decent eyebrow
that reads from a block away. Being the kind souls that they are,
however, they've decided to share their beauty tips with the public in
an easily consumed format for the masses, both in person and on the web.
This lil tutorial contains information on
what to get, where to get it, and how to put it on. This was
first written for Burning Man, but applies to any ole tranny-intensive
situation.
What to Get
There are certain drag basics
that everyone should have in their makeup kit. Do you
need all this junk? No, you can get away with base
and an eyebrow pencil. But NAMBLA the Clown and Ms. Candy Cane
are huge believers that more is more. Otherwise why
would they be drag queens?
- Spirit gum. All purpose
makeup glue. NAMBLA swears by this stuff, using it to glue
down his eyebrows and attach jewels to his face.
- Eyebrow wax. Unless you
have perfect eyebrows that go with the look you're doing or
you're one of those freaks who shaves them, you're going to
want to temporarily erase those fuzzy caterpillars above
your eyes. Eyebrow wax smoothes them down and hides them.
Sometimes it's known as eyebrow wax, or at Krylon can also
be known as "Special plastic."
- Base. This is your
face's undercoat. Base goes down second. Always put
on sunscreen first, before you put on your makeup.
Some makeup provides protection, but probably not the crap
you're going to be buying at Walgreens.
- Translucent powder and the
like. Powder sets your base. Typically base is oil-based
so it smoothes on evenly and requires something to set it so
it doesn't wipe off.
- Lip Stuff. Lipstick is
a must, as is lip liner, but you don't have to use
traditional lipstick or liner, you just have to plan for it.
Reshaping your mouth can be very pretty or disturbing,
depending on execution. The secret to perfect glitter
lips isn't glitter lipstick, which always sucks.
Put on you lipstick first then touch ultra-fine
glitter to it. Coats much more intensely.
- Mascara. Some people
use it. Some people don't. If you're wearing fake eyelashes
you might still want some to darken you eyelashes which may
be coated with translucent powder after your first sloppy
attempt at drag.
- Eyeliner. For out of
the box perfect lines there's nothing like liquid eyeliner,
and it comes in cool colors. Other makeup can perform the
same task, but not as easily.
- Color powders & pots.
You don't have to buy blush to use as blush. You can
use any eye shadow or lipstick, so long as it's a color or
texture you like. There are zillions of eye shadows,
blushes, and theatrical makeups you can use to add color.
- Fake eyelashes. ALWAYS
good, one should never feel fully dressed without these
buggers. They really finish a look, but are hard to apply.
Tips on how to put them on are listed below.
- Glitter and jewels. Why
just apply makeup when you can glue stuff to your face as
well. Rhinestones, sequins, macaroni, Scrabble tiles. Why
limit yourself?
- Special effects makeup.
Fake blood. Tooth black, white, red, and nicotine yellow.
Fresh scab. These are NAMBLA the Clown's signature
additions. Not for everyone, but fun to use for that look
that gets the looks.
- Tools. Again, you don't
need all these tools, but you will need some.
- Sealed makeup box or bag.
Makeup always explodes at some point in your career
unless you're a totally anal freak. The other kind of
freak who irons their socks and folds their underwear and
remembers peoples birthdays and doesn't like chocolate.
No, makeup always explodes. Lids to loose powder jiggle
open. Fake blood lids twist open. It happens. Trust
me. Get a bag or box that seals tight.
- Powder puff and brushes help
you put on and remove excess loose powder after you finish
your base.
- Paint brushes are
needed to apply dry and liquid colors.
- Makeup Pencils are
great for sharp lines, but require an accompanying
sharpener. (Note that pencils are really hard to
sharpen in 110°F deserts because they soften and don't
keep a point. Store them in your ice cooler in a
Ziploc bag if you're going to Burning Man.)
- Sponges for applying
makeup are optional. NAMBLA uses his fingers. Others
prefer sponges.
- Decent mirror. Don't
think your pal's gonna let you muscle in on their mirror.
Always have your own.
- Makeup removal stuff.
On the road Baby Wipes, cold cream and paper towels are
your best friends. You don't need water if you have these
supplies. But make sure you get non-scented Baby
Wipes otherwise you'll end up smelling like your
grandmother before the incontinence set in.
- Baby oil.
Removes spirit gum; don't buy "spirit gum
remover". It's a rip off and is just repackaged
baby oil. If you glued down your eyebrows and forget
baby oil you're screwed. But it is a good
look on it's own: morning-after drag remnants.
Where
to Get It
You can get all the basics at
drugstores like Walgreens. But if you wanna go mega
you'll need to go to a specialty retailer. Surprisingly enough a
lot of department store makeup counters such as Makeup
Forever, Sephora and MAC have excellent colors. But
they'll cost you an arm and a nut. And if you're a girl or low
circulation diabetic that's gonna be pretty costly. Theatrical
makeup stores also have great colors at medium prices. All
store recommendations listed here are for San Francisco. There
are equivalents everywhere, only perhaps not as good for the
aspiring tranny, clown or accessorized nudist.
If you don't have a lot of time
and are in San Francisco you can get everything you can
possibly think of at California Theatrical Supply, 132
9th Street tween Mission and Howard. Call them for their hours
at (415) 863-9236. They are not open weekends, so you'll
have to plan ahead. NAMBLA the Clown adores this place.
For goodies like rhinestones,
jewels and silly drag accessories three places make life easy.
- Cliff's
Hardware on Castro at 18th is ridiculous. Fake
eyelashes, jewels, you name it for mainstream drag they're a
great supplier, though their makeup may be a bit more
expensive than California Theatrical.
- General
Bead. The help at General Bead is really snotty.
Go ahead and tell them NAMBLA said that, and that they need
an attitude adjustment 'cause they just work in a craft
shop. Having said that, they have wicked cool beads and
jewels perfect for gluing madness in quantities undreamable.
- Costumes
on Haight, 735 Haight St, (415) 621-1356. This
place is packed full of crap you don't need, yet want.
Makeup here is a bit overprices, but it's a good one-stop
shop for both makeup and costumes. They have really good
silly stuff.
How
to Put It On
First things first. Sunscreen. Put it on before
anything else goes on if you're doing makeup in daylight.
Otherwise you're going to have a really stupid sunburn.
After a gay pride parade years ago NAMBLA discovered that the
pink sponge rollers he'd glued to his shaven head had left large
white rectangles where they cast shadows, while the rest of his
head was burned to a pink crisp. Not good. Sunscreen
please.
Preventing splatter.
Wear clothing that buttons or zips up the front rather than the
costume you plan to wear. One always spills makeup down
their front when using the quantities necessary for that over
the top look you're going for. If you do have to wear your
costume, may one suggest a bib or apron frontside to stop the
dribbling? Tissue paper or newspaper shoved into your
collar may look stupid, but hey, if it makes your final look
that much better, so what.
Getting rid of your eyebrows.
Glue down your eyebrows with spirit gum first. Let the
stuff dry a bit then use your paintbrush to squish them down
more, so that they're as smooth to your face as possible.
NAMBLA has huge furry caterpillars above his eyes and really
struggles to hide them. After the glue has dried apply the
eyebrow wax til it's smooth. Use as little eyebrow wax as
possible, as it can crack and peel if you use too much.
Base. Apply as
thinly as possible yet still getting an even smooth coating.
Use either sponges or fingers to apply. Cream base applies
very evenly. Choose a light-to-medium colored base, rather
than a darker colored base. Unless you're doing blackface,
of course. Light colors allow you to use dark colors as
accents and even lighter colors as highlights. Dark colors
on light read better from a distance, and you want people to
fear and disdain you from at least a block away, as well as in
low lighting. Remember when putting base on your neck that
it will get on the neck of your garment guaranteed.
When put on other parts of your body, such as arms and legs
remember that makeup wipes off. NAMBLA once loaned his
bicycle to a naked guy whose ass was painted red. You can
imagine the bike seat when he got it back. Eeeeww!
But sniffable.
Powder your base liberally.
Put on lots of powder and brush away with a powder brush or the
like. Powder sets your base so it won't smear. Leave
a little extra powder not wiped off just below your eyes on your
cheek bones as well as on your nose while paint on your eyes and
eyebrows. Whenever you do your eyes with eye shadow,
invariably powders fall onto your nose and cheekbones, which can
be a pain. If you leave that extra powder on you can brush
away the excess at the end without ruining your base.
Now start slapping it on.
Start with the broad outlines you want to achieve. Don't
try to get things even. If you're a beginner it's
often easier to intentionally make your face asymmetrical.
Otherwise you can tweak on getting your eyebrows even forever.
This is a matter of style, but often it's easiest to start with
the eyes, shape the lips and let everything fall in place
afterward. If you draw your eyebrows on higher than your
natural ones you have much more space to exaggerate your eyes.
Lips don't have to be lip shaped. And for that matter, who
needs eyebrows in the first place? It's shocking that this
is being stated, but put on less makeup than you think.
Or at least put it on as thin as possible. Makeup cracks.
The thicker it is the more it cracks. Again this can be a
good look if it's what you're trying for, otherwise you'll just
end up looking like one more woe begotten Frankentranny.
Fake eyelashes are a
nightmare for beginners. They are, experts think, required
for a complete look. However they're a pain to put on.
Erica uses eyelash glue for hers. NAMBLA uses something
called "Medical Adhesive" for his. To use eyelash glue
put on a thin amount to the lash and let it sit there til it
gets tacky. Well, tackier.... Then put them on slowly.
Good thing is eyelash glue peels off easily when it's dry.
If you screw up give it a minute to dry then peel it off and try
again. Medical adhesive dries pretty instantly, and since
NAMBLA has absolutely no patience this is perfect for him.
It is, however, unforgiving, and does not come off easily,
often leaving little globules the next morning, which is
stunning for tooling down to Center Camp Café, but may not be
the look you're trying for going to the office in the morning.
Just a thought. Also if you're opting for those massive
eyelashes there is a trick to putting them on.
Curve the outer corners (the end of the lash toward your ear) up
a little bit away from the eye, rather than along the eyelash
line itself. This curve makes the eyelashes turn up and
outward, otherwise they kinda fall into your eyes and look like
eye claws. Not that that's a bad look either. DO
NOT USE SPIRIT GUM with fake eyelashes. That shit burns your
eyes like a mofo. Not a good idea.
Jewels, fake blood and the like
are the finishing touches. If you use glitter remember to
not let it hit the ground. Again, use less than the
payload of a thermonuclear glitter bomb. Apply it above
something. Glitter doesn't biodegrade, much like
Cher, so if it hits the ground it's staying there unless you
clean it up. Also glue your jewels on carefully.
When gluing them on the trick is to apply the glue to yourself,
not the jewel. It's much easier that way. Bring your
glue with you as well. Never know when you're gonna need a
touch up. Fake blood, bruise kits and fake scabs rock.
In this case too much is just fine. Some fake blood and
fresh scab never dries, though. So ask your retailer if it
dries or not and make your decisions about which to buy and
where to apply it based on this. NAMBLA the Clown applies
jewels to direct the spectator's eye away from his sloppily
slapped on face's imperfections. Seems to work.
Take It Off...
Take it All Off!
When it comes to removing this gunk, life is easy if you planned
well. Apply cold cream in a thin layer and rub like soap.
Wipe away with paper towels. Once you've gotten most of it
off you can use Baby Wipes and paper towels with dabs of cold
creme to get the rest. Most theatrical and drug store
cosmetics come off relatively easily. Use baby oil on a rag to
remove spirit gum. That requires some scrubbing, but isn't
so bad. You don't have to use cold cream, but it makes
life easier. Almost all makeup comes off with soap and
water (except spirit gum and medical adhesive).
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